Handout from Bean Bonanaza
Phaseolus vulgaris is most important
Originated: Central and S. America / DNA testing
Bush and Pole
Warm sunny location with minimum of 6 hours of sunlight is needed.
Types are: French / Snap / Wax / Shelling / Dry / Popping
Fabaceae= All have symbiotic relationship with nitrogen fixing bacteria = add nitrogen to soil grown in
Nutrition = rich in Iron & Potassium. Dry Beans rich in Protein, soluble fiber, complex Carbs and folate
Germination Temp : 60 – (80) – 85 ° F (seed can rot in cold soil)
Germination Time: 6 – 18 days /16days – 59°F/ 11 days - 68°F/ 8 days - 77°F Optimum/ 6 days - 86°F
Seed viability +or- 3 years
Germination %: 75+
Transplants 3-4 weeks (little time saves and seed is cheaper) (OK – if conditions warrant them)
Growing temps 50-(60 to 70) 80°F flowers may drop if over 80°F
Plants per person: approx. 40 or 9 sq. ft.
Start:
May - July (Bush)
May – June (Pole)
Give plant enough time if growing Dry Bean
Soil PH 6.0 – 7/7.5
Soil Preparation: Work top 6”-8” of soil
Inoculation: symbiotic bacteria helps nitrogen fixation can boost yield as much as 60%
Succession planting: Bush every 2-3 weeks for fresh, Pole longer bearing so lest frequently sowing
Planting depth: follow package directions can be 1 – 3 inches deep depending on soil temp, soil condition and seed size, one rule is 2-3 times deep the width of the seed
Spacing: plants about 4-6 inches apart, if need to thin cut or pinch out DO NOT pull. Bush can be 4-6” both ways, Poles 6-8” offset rows (think about how to support and harvest) if around pole plant 5-6 around and thing to 2-3 plants, Dry beans can be spaced 9-12’ to lessen competition
Weeding: when young but be careful beans have shallow roots, usually no need to mulch they like warm soil and will create living mulch on own, if poles are far apart it could help conserve moisture.
Watering: keep evenly moist but don’t over water, avoid getting foliage wet
Fertilization: usually do not need. Avoid high nitrogen (exception is sandy soil), middle number is most important At planting you could add a 10 percent nitrogen fertilizer at 2 pounds for every 100 square feet for beans. On most alkaline soils in the Pacific Northwest, potassium is adequate, but phosphorus needs supplementation. Using an 11-48-0 or similar analysis fertilizer as the nitrogen source will also provide adequate phosphorus.
Support: check variety, some bush might need sticks to help, most poles get 6-10’ tall and need support
Pest and Disease:
Insects= Aphids, Cutworm and armyworms, Spider mites, Trips
Disease= Mosaics, Damping-off, Fusarium root rot, Gray Mold, Rust, White Mold
Harvest:
Snap bean: When full size but before bean starts to swell. Bean should snap when is bent. Can be picked earlier, test to see what you prefer. Hold vine and pull down to avoid hurting plant of pulling it out of the ground. Harvesting is best done in morning after dew is gone. Keep harvesting to keep plant producing, even if you don’t need them. Check every 2-3 days.
Shell bean: pick about 4-8 days after been pod reaches full size
Dry bean: wait for the pods to turn brown and dry. If threat of frost you can pull the vine, root and all and hang inside upside down to dry. Bean should shatter when crushed. You need good air circulation for drying.
Seed Saving: To save seeds grow like dry beans. Beans are self-fertile but insects can cross. It is best to grow only one variety or keep at good distance apart. Runner beans will cross with other runners and not with non-runners.
(other species with important bean crops are in the Phaseolus, Vigna, Vicia and Glycine genera)
(Vicia faba- Fava)
(Phaseolus lunatus– Lima)
(Phaseolus mungo – Mung)
(Phaseolus coccineus– Runner)
(Glycine max – Soy)
Originated: Central and S. America / DNA testing
Bush and Pole
Warm sunny location with minimum of 6 hours of sunlight is needed.
Types are: French / Snap / Wax / Shelling / Dry / Popping
Fabaceae= All have symbiotic relationship with nitrogen fixing bacteria = add nitrogen to soil grown in
Nutrition = rich in Iron & Potassium. Dry Beans rich in Protein, soluble fiber, complex Carbs and folate
Germination Temp : 60 – (80) – 85 ° F (seed can rot in cold soil)
Germination Time: 6 – 18 days /16days – 59°F/ 11 days - 68°F/ 8 days - 77°F Optimum/ 6 days - 86°F
Seed viability +or- 3 years
Germination %: 75+
Transplants 3-4 weeks (little time saves and seed is cheaper) (OK – if conditions warrant them)
Growing temps 50-(60 to 70) 80°F flowers may drop if over 80°F
Plants per person: approx. 40 or 9 sq. ft.
Start:
May - July (Bush)
May – June (Pole)
Give plant enough time if growing Dry Bean
Soil PH 6.0 – 7/7.5
Soil Preparation: Work top 6”-8” of soil
Inoculation: symbiotic bacteria helps nitrogen fixation can boost yield as much as 60%
Succession planting: Bush every 2-3 weeks for fresh, Pole longer bearing so lest frequently sowing
Planting depth: follow package directions can be 1 – 3 inches deep depending on soil temp, soil condition and seed size, one rule is 2-3 times deep the width of the seed
Spacing: plants about 4-6 inches apart, if need to thin cut or pinch out DO NOT pull. Bush can be 4-6” both ways, Poles 6-8” offset rows (think about how to support and harvest) if around pole plant 5-6 around and thing to 2-3 plants, Dry beans can be spaced 9-12’ to lessen competition
Weeding: when young but be careful beans have shallow roots, usually no need to mulch they like warm soil and will create living mulch on own, if poles are far apart it could help conserve moisture.
Watering: keep evenly moist but don’t over water, avoid getting foliage wet
Fertilization: usually do not need. Avoid high nitrogen (exception is sandy soil), middle number is most important At planting you could add a 10 percent nitrogen fertilizer at 2 pounds for every 100 square feet for beans. On most alkaline soils in the Pacific Northwest, potassium is adequate, but phosphorus needs supplementation. Using an 11-48-0 or similar analysis fertilizer as the nitrogen source will also provide adequate phosphorus.
Support: check variety, some bush might need sticks to help, most poles get 6-10’ tall and need support
Pest and Disease:
Insects= Aphids, Cutworm and armyworms, Spider mites, Trips
Disease= Mosaics, Damping-off, Fusarium root rot, Gray Mold, Rust, White Mold
Harvest:
Snap bean: When full size but before bean starts to swell. Bean should snap when is bent. Can be picked earlier, test to see what you prefer. Hold vine and pull down to avoid hurting plant of pulling it out of the ground. Harvesting is best done in morning after dew is gone. Keep harvesting to keep plant producing, even if you don’t need them. Check every 2-3 days.
Shell bean: pick about 4-8 days after been pod reaches full size
Dry bean: wait for the pods to turn brown and dry. If threat of frost you can pull the vine, root and all and hang inside upside down to dry. Bean should shatter when crushed. You need good air circulation for drying.
Seed Saving: To save seeds grow like dry beans. Beans are self-fertile but insects can cross. It is best to grow only one variety or keep at good distance apart. Runner beans will cross with other runners and not with non-runners.
(other species with important bean crops are in the Phaseolus, Vigna, Vicia and Glycine genera)
(Vicia faba- Fava)
(Phaseolus lunatus– Lima)
(Phaseolus mungo – Mung)
(Phaseolus coccineus– Runner)
(Glycine max – Soy)